Fine Lines: cosmetic advertising and the perception of ageing beauty

Fine Lines is a study investigating the language used in adverts for female facial cosmetics (excluding makeup) in UK Vogue magazine. The study queries whether this has been affected by the introduction and rise in popularity of minimally invasive aesthetic procedures to alleviate the signs of facial ageing. The contemporary cultural landscape is explored: this includes the ubiquitous nature of advertising as well as the growth of the skincare market. Emergent thematic analysis of selected advertisements showed a change in the language used before the introduction of the aesthetic procedures (1992 and 1993) compared with later years (2006 and 2007). We have noted a decline in numbers of advertisements within some themes (nourishing in particular showed a marked fall in number of mentions) while others have shown increases (those offering protection against UV radiation and pollution increased by 50% in the later data set). The remaining thematic categories were relatively constant over the period of study, though the emphasis shifted within the themes over time. This article concludes by asserting that the language has changed, that the vocabulary has become more inventive and that skincare products appear to be marketed as complementary to cosmetic procedures. In addition, some of the products appear to be being marketed as luxury items, something to be bought because owning and using it gives you pleasure and bestows prestige on the owner

Assessing the sensitivity of two TEWL measuring methods: open vs. closed chamber

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is a key parameter in the assessment of skin barrier impairment and recovery. The aim of this study was to perform a comparative assessment of the two types of TEWL instruments, with specific emphasis on their sensitivity in detecting small differences. An open chamber (Tewameter TM300, Courage & Khazaka, Germany) and a closed, condenser-chamber instrument (AquaFlux AF200, Biox Systems, UK) were used in the study. A complimentary skin hydration test (Corneometer CM825, Courage & Khazaka, Germany) was also carried out. In the first study, the closed chamber results have revealed two additional sets of significantly different data, in comparison to the open chamber method. In the second study, where the level of barrier impairment was higher, both methods have resulted in the same statistical outcome. It was concluded that the condenser-chamber instrument possesses higher sensitivity than the open chamber when assessing small differences in TEWL, under the same experimental conditions

Skin deep. Perceptions of human and material ageing and opportunities for design

In Western society there is an obsession, fuelled by pervasive advertising, with hiding the effects of ageing and maintaining skin that exudes ‘youthful perfection’. Rapid unsustainable purchasing and disposal of mass-produced objects is, in part, driven by ‘cosmetic obsolescence’ - changes to the pristine material surface which are perceived as damage and degradation. We consider the parallels between these attitudes to changes in material surfaces and human ageing, and propose that actively considering future material change in product design could increase product longevity with both environmental and social benefit

Hair ageing and quality of life for women of African descent living in the UK

This study explored the age-related changes to hair management and styling techniques and related measures of satisfaction and quality of life (QoL) of women of African and Afro-Caribbean descent of age over 60 living in the UK. An online survey, including a QoL questionnaire was conducted (n=46).86.9% of the survey participants were between 60 and 69 years old, whilst the remaining group were between 70 and 80 years old. All identified their natural hair as curl type 6,7,8, with curl type 6 being most common n=16. 78% reported completely natural hair (shorter than 10cm=21; longer than 10cm=15). A preference towards natural styles past menopause was demonstrated with hair length, texture and colour being associated with positive attitudes. However, the perception of decreased hair manageability could be related to the requirement to complete more haircare and hairstyling tasks at home and more frequently than if the hair was subjected to long-lasting styling techniques such as relaxing or weaving. Overall, these changes to appearance, styling and personal effort increased satisfaction with hair but had no impact on the quality of life of the participants

Colour matched cosmetic foundations for black skin tones

Foundations are the most commonly used decorative cosmetics on the market, and a natural-looking finish is one of their most preferred performance attributes. This puts the pressure on product developers to better match consumer skin tones;1-3 and the process of color-matching foundations true to skin is a challenge. This is due, in part, to the different biological factors defining skin color. These must be transposed into the correct blend of cosmetic pigments, which defines the color of the foundation. Internal market research has demonstrated that in the United Kingdom, the range of cosmetic foundations available for dark skin tones, i.e., Fitzpatrick types V and VI, is considerably disproportionate to the range of products available for lighter skin tones, i.e., Fitzpatrick types I and II. In fact, of a total of 343 foundation shades observed in mainstream retailers, only 9% were suitable for consumers with dark skin. This compared with 67% for lighter skin tones. Furthermore, consumers having darker skin tones report being dissatisfied with commercially available foundations, meaning their needs are not being met by the cosmetics industry. In relation, this study focused on the development of a foundation to effectively match a range of black skin tones. New pigments were tested in varying ratios and in vivo color measurements were made, as described here. - See more at: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/ethniccare/Color-Corrected-Perfectly-Tuning-to-Black-Skin-Tones-414726553.html#sthash.h0Hs8AfO.dpu

Hair ageing in Black women (age>59): impact on personal and social identity and subjective wellbeing

This interdisciplinary study explores the evolution of hair management practices of Black women from age-related biological, personal and social perspectives. It seeks to clarify if and how any changes impact the subjective wellbeing of women. The study focuses on Black women living in the UK who are 59 years old and over as biological changes to hair become more prominent after menopause. The study contributes to raising the visibility of this group of women who appear underrepresented in the research fields of hair science, well-being and ageing as well as in the media

Fine Lines: Cosmetic advertising and the perception of ageing beauty

Despite the rapid ageing of Western populations and preponderance of older people in society, older people, particularly women, still perceive the need to retain a youthful appearance. Thus 43% of women questioned by Mintel (2012) considered looking young to be highly important. Moreover, with an apparently youth-obsessed media constantly reinforcing the negative aspects of ageing, it is no surprise that there is a strong market for products which claim to slow, or even stop, the ageing process. As science comes to a greater understanding of the ageing process, more and more sophisticated “anti-ageing” products and treatments have been developed. The pace of change quickened with the licensing in 2002 of botulinum toxin A (BotoxBotox™, Allergan, United States) for the reduction of facial wrinkles, followed in 2005 by Restylane® (Medicis Aesthetics Inc., United States), the first of the injectable fillers containing hyaluronic acid, which can replace facial volume lost due to age. This is the contemporary cultural background that forms the background for our research that has investigated cosmetic advertising and its putative role in shaping our expectations and understandings of age and ageing. The authors will present findings from their analysis of the changes in the language of advertising before and after these transformational developments in aesthetic dermatology. The exciting and provocative paper will stimulate new perspectives on the role of the body and beauty in later life and above all present a critical review concerning some of the ways in which ‘age’ is marketed in the 21st century

Fine Lines: Representations of ageing

Despite the rapid ageing of western populations and preponderance of older people in society, older people, particularly women, still perceive the need to retain a youthful appearance. Thus 43% of women questioned by Mintel (2012) considered looking young to be highly important. Moreover, with an apparently youth-obsessed media constantly reinforcing the negative aspects of ageing, it is no surprise that there is a strong market for products which claim to slow or even stop, the ageing process. As science comes to a greater understanding of the ageing process, more and more sophisticated “anti-ageing” products and treatments have been developed. The pace of change quickened with the licensing in 2002 of botulinum toxin A (Botox ™, Allergan, United States) for reduction of facial wrinkles, followed in 2005 by Restylane ™ (Medicis Aesthetics Inc., United States), the first of the injectable fillers containing hyaluronic acid, which can replace facial volume lost due to age. This is the contemporary cultural background that forms the background to this talk. The objective of the talk is to investigate cosmetic advertising and its putative role in shaping our expectations and understanding of age and ageing. Results from before and after theses transformational developments in aesthetic dermatology will be presented. The aim of the paper is to stimulate new perspectives on the role of the body and beauty in later life and above all to present a critical review concerning some of the ways in which ‘age’ is marketed and represented in the 21st century

Mirror Mirror: cosmetic advertising and the perception of ageing beauty.

Apparently, nobody likes to grow old and yet ageing affects us all. Indeed, the changes linked with advancing age can be usefully examined from many different perspectives: sociological, financial, and psychological or at a personal level by simply looking in the mirror. Ageing on a personal and societal level is persistently associated with decline. Is this a cultural imperative or is it ‘normal’ to fear ageing? What is normal and natural about age and ageing and how does the cosmetic industry influence our views of later life? These are some of the questions that will be addressed in this presentation. With an apparently youth-obsessed media constantly reinforcing the negative aspects of ageing, it is no surprise that there is a strong market for products which claim to slow, or even stop, the ageing process. As science comes to a greater understanding of the ageing process, more and more sophisticated ‘anti-ageing’ products and treatments have been developed. The pace of change quickened with the licensing in 2002 of botulinum toxin A (Botox™, Allergan, United States) for the reduction of facial wrinkles, followed in 2005 by Restylane® (Medicis Aesthetics Inc., United States), the first of the injectable fillers containing hyaluronic acid, which can replace facial volume lost due to age. This is the contemporary cultural background that forms the background for our research that has investigated cosmetic advertising and its putative role in shaping our expectations and understandings of age and ageing. The authors will present findings from their analysis of the changes in the language of advertising before and after these transformational developments in aesthetic dermatology. The exciting and provocative paper will stimulate new perspectives on the role of the body and beauty in later life and above all present a critical review concerning some of the ways in which ‘age’ is marketed in the 21st century

Can the use of reading tasks enhance students' confidence in the use of academic literature?

This article explores the growing diversity of the modern student body and the growing need to prepare students for reading at a tertiary level. It describes a small-scale case study that was devised with the aim of assessing and enhancing student engagement with academic literature by introducing guided reading tasks during the first term of Year 1 of the BSc (Hons) in Cosmetic Science at London College of Fashion (UAL). After outlining the literature that informed the design of these tasks, this article discusses the project results, which indicated that students found guided reading helpful with the added effect of increasing their confidence as independent learners